Made-to-measure or sartorial? What you should know before choosing a quality shirt

Made-to-measure and sartorial: they’re not the same thing.

In the world of high-end shirts, these two terms are often used interchangeably.
But they describe two different concepts.

Made-to-measure means the garment is adjusted to the client’s measurements. It can be machine- or hand-made, and it can be excellent or average depending on how it's crafted.

Sartorial refers to the process: the way the shirt is built, the construction techniques, the precision of proportions, and the artisan quality behind it.

A shirt can be sartorial even if it's made in a standard size — and a made-to-measure shirt isn’t necessarily crafted with care.

Common myths about quality shirts

“A handmade shirt means it's fully done by hand”
→ Not necessarily. Even in the best tailoring houses, machines are used — for precision. What matters is the time, the skill, and the hand that guides the work.

“More details mean higher quality”
→ True elegance is often hidden: clean seams, balanced shoulders, proper collar construction. Subtlety is the sign of real craftsmanship.

How to recognize a well-made shirt — no matter the fit

Here are 5 technical details that reveal true quality:

Armhole seam
→ A soft, well-shaped seam allows for natural movement.

Pattern alignment
→ Stripes or checks should match precisely at the sides and pockets.

Shoulder construction
→ There must be harmony between the shoulder slope and the panel cut.

Stitching
→ Fine, tight stitching — especially English seams — indicates great attention to detail.

Overall fit
→ It should fall naturally on the body, without pulling or stiffness.
Quality shows when worn, not when hanging.

At Vanacore: design comes first, then personalization

We begin with models that are sartorially designed: balanced, refined, tested over time.
Only after that — if needed — we adapt the fit to the client's body.

The goal is not to impress with measurements, but to deliver a shirt that moves with you, breathes with you, and performs over time.

The difference isn’t always visible to those who look for flash.
But for those who value substance, it’s unmistakable.